I’ve been fortunate to spend a great deal of time fishing throughout Alaska. I lived there many years, have written much about fishing in Alaska in both magazines and books, and consider it the best fishing on the planet for what I like to do. So when I hear people complain about how poor their fishing experience was when on their dream trip to Alaska, I have to ask, “Why?”

The answers usually come down to one of two things: Either they didn’t catch many fish or they couldn’t escape the crowds. Both are easily fixed and can be avoided prior to even leaving on your adventure. Whether looking to escape crowds or catch more fish, knowing the run timing of the species in the waters you want to fish is key.

Being aware of run timings shouldn’t be limited to your Alaska or Canadian fishing adventures, however. Whatever waters you explore, knowing the run timing of fish you want to catch is one of the most important elements of the fish-catching scenario. No matter how good of an angler you are, or how fancy your gear, you can’t catch fish that aren’t there.

Take some of our Northwest coastal streams, for example. When I first started fishing winter steelhead in the late 1960s, Dad, Grandpa and I put fish in the boat with regularity in mid-November. Today, the peak fishing time on some of those same rivers won’t be seen until late January or February.

Such a change in run timings can be due to several factors, like different strains of hatchery fish being introduced over the years, ocean conditions, river structure and much more. No matter the reasons why the changes in run timings have shifted over the years, the most important fact is that anglers are aware of the changes in these runs and are on the water during optimal times.

In the comprehensive book I wrote, A Flyfisher’s Guide To Alaska, the research and detailed writing that went into it were overwhelming. However, I consider one of the most important sections within each region-specific chapter to be that of the run timings for all of Alaska’s freshwater species. I’ve had numerous people comment from around the world on the value of the run-timings information, confirming it played a major role in helping to not only plan their entire trip, but to help make it a success.

On a local level, knowing specific run timings is important, but micromanaging them can be even more important. By micromanaging run timings, I mean keeping close track of fish movements as they initially enter a river or once they’ve entered a river. This can be applied to winter and summer steelhead, spring and fall chinook and all other anadromous fish we like pursuing.

In one of the rivers I like to fish I know that once salmon pass a certain checkpoint, it takes them about 11 days to reach where I chase them. In a favorite winter steelhead river, I know that any time after January 1, when the first big rain hits, the fish will likely show up. On another couple of coastal rivers, I know that when winter water levels are unseasonably low—and most anglers have given up—fish hold in deep holes; the least likely place to find them this time of year. In this scenario the fish aren’t moving, but they are in the system and it took me a long time to figure out where they were and how to catch them in the unfamiliar conditions.

When it comes to figuring out run timings for the rivers you fish, there are many resources. Books and magazine articles are plentiful and are usually quite accurate. Biologists are another great resource, especially those working in hatchery systems who have their finger on the daily pulse of fish movement.

Local anglers are another solid resource; guides another. Gas station attendants, sporting goods employees and even restaurant staff can all offer helpful advice. Websites, blogs, chat forums and radio shows offer some of the most up-to-date fishrun information and are valued resources.

Much of what we know in life comes from what we learn from others. Information is valuable in getting us through our daily lives as spouses, parents, friends and professionals. Information is also critical in helping us improve upon our passionate hobbies, like fishing.

True, a great deal of what we learn in the fishing world comes from spending time on the water. But time is something not a lot of us have when it comes to fishing. A weekend here, a few days after work there and maybe a short vacation may be all we get to test our skills and build our learning base. That’s why it’s important—if you have a desire to improve as an angler— to draw upon available resources.

If there’s one thing I have learned in my more than 40 years of salmon, steelhead and trout fishing, it’s to never wait for perfect conditions. This is especially true in the world of winter steelhead and spring chinook fishing—here, the ideal conditions may only come a few times a season. Though the conditions may be less than favorable, as long as fish are in the system, it’s up to you to figure out how to catch them.

This winter, whether targeting steelhead or trout close to home, or planning that next dream trip, invest time in learning the run timings. By knowing the annual arrival times and peak-run periods of the fish you’re after, the odds of catching them dramatically increases.

Knowing where the fish will be, when, could be the most valuable piece of information an angler can hold. The fish will be there, it’s up to you to find out when, and time your arrival accordingly.

Note: Personally signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, A Flyfisher’s Guide To Alaska, can be obtained by sending $38.00 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. The 455-page book contains over 120 photos and some 150 maps from around the state and is a great guide, no matter what your style of fishing. This and other books can also be ordered from www.scotthaugen.com.

If wanting to brighten things up, Coast lights is the way to go (www.coastportland.com). Coast is a third-generation, family-owned company based out of Portland, Oregon. They’ve been around since 1919 and keep expanding and improving their product line.

Coast used to distribute LED Lenser lights, but as of June this year started creating their own, more advanced and efficient lights. For those familiar with the high-quality lights Coast has offered in the past, the new ones blow them away!

Take for instance their new HP7 hand-held light. This is a favorite among many die-hard Coast users, and replaces the P7. The new HP7 produces nearly 210 lumens and throws a beam 200 yards when turned to bright. At 5.5 inches in length, this durable light runs 3.5 hours on four AAA batteries.

When walking brushy trails, looking to light up the path well ahead of you, the HP7 is the low-profile light to get. It’s also great for navigating any type of terrain as the fast control focus system offers superior beam consistency when ranging from spot to flood settings. It weighs in at 7.2 ounces, including the batteries. This is sure to become one of Coast’s most popular lights.

If looking to really light things up, the HP21 is the light for you. This beast is like a spotlight on steroids, producing 1,300 lumens, almost 800 more lumens than their previous model. The new HP21 runs on just four D batteries, is 15.5 inches long and weighs in at 2.8 pounds, with batteries.

When backing in boat trailers or loading and unloading boats in the dark, this light will make it seem like it’s daylight. If traveling waters in the dark, this light will clearly allow you to see the banks, rocks, riffles and other features needed to safely navigate.

The HP21 features a rubber bezel ring on the front-end to aid in the ease of focusing the beam which is set on a push-pull system. It also has a high and low beam setting, as well as a strobe option.

One of my favorite headlamps is the Coast HL7. This model replaces their H7 and offers a whopping 183 lumens on high beam, a mere three lumens on low. It runs on three AAA batteries and has an operating time of 6.25 hours on high, up to 75 hours on low. It weighs in at an impressive 4.4 ounces, with the batteries.

The new HL7 offers a large, easy-to-find power switch and an easy-grip focusing bezel for simple adjustments. The dimming system is easy to use and lets you broadcast a high-power beam long distances, or dim it enough to pick nightcrawlers without spooking them.

When it comes to lights, pick what fits your needs. If you’re like me, you’ll find the more tinkering you do, the more each light deserves a place in your arsenal. With a well-rounded supply of functional lights, you’ll be amazed at how efficient your time on and off the water will become.

Note: Special STS Christmas offer! For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular books, Bank Fishing For Steelhead & Salmon and 300 Tips To More Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $40.00 to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. With free shipping and handling, that’s a savings of over $10.00!

It’s a basic piece of our everyday fishing gear, yet one that doesn’t get the level of appreciation—or attention—it deserves until it’s discovered missing. I’m talking about that extra spool of line...or spools of line, as the case may be.
    <br><br>It’s a helpless feeling to reach into a vest, pack or boat compartment in search of an extra spool of line that isn’t there. Whether needed to replace mainlines, leaders or droppers, extra line is an important piece of equipment that mustn’t be taken for granted.
    <br><br>Last summer I was on the river with my fishing partner of over 40 years, my dad. In an effort to keep in the shade we tucked the drift boat tight beneath the overhanging limbs of a big deciduous tree growing near the river bank. We knew our sidearm casting skills would be needed.
    <br><br>Nonetheless, on the third cast, yours truly got careless. With all my might, I whipped my arm and wrist, intent on getting my light-line setup 3/4 of the way across the river. My terminal gear didn’t make it past the boat.
    <br><br>With my Corky and what was left of my eggs dangling from a tree limb, I hated to even glance at my reel. The sound—and the feel—said it all. I knew I was going to have one heckuva bird’s nest to deal with. The question was, “How bad was it?”
    <br><br>A quick glance confirmed my suspicions and I didn’t even attempt to fix it. Reaching for the scissors, I began slicing through the tangled mess, taking it all the way down to the spool.
    <br><br>Fortunately I had a backup spool of 10-pound test PLine CXX, my go-to mainline on this trip. Within a matter of minutes I was back in action. Not only did I have a fresh, full spool of line, but I saved time by cutting through the mess and re-rigging, rather than trying to unravel the tangle
    <br><br>That wasn’t the first time I’ve encountered such an ordeal, and I’m sure it won’t be the last.
    <br><br>Having extra spools of line can make or break a day on the water. Many streams occupied by salmon and steelhead are rough and either boulder-strewn or bedrock-laden. This means the habitat can be hard on line, especially when fish take you into such obstacles. When fishing these rivers—or any river for that matter—it’s a good idea to have an extra spool of fresh line on hand. I’ll even have various spools of different line weights in order to meet specific needs.
    <br><br>For instance, if I’m fishing steelhead and chinook salmon on the same trip, I know I’ll need an extra spool of 10- or 12-pound mainline for steelhead, 20- to 30-pound test for salmon. If I’m plugging with yet a different type of line, or a line of different weight, I’ll include an extra spool of that, too.
    <br><br>Not only can bird’s nests occur on your mainline, but the mainline may simply be in need of replacing. When pursuing big fish there’s the possibility of being spooled, that is, having every bit of line stripped off the reel, then snapping off at the reel. This is a helpless feeling, I know, I’ve had it happen with monster steelhead in raging waters.

Mainlines can also become frayed and in need of replacing. Don’t chance it, big fish are too hard to come by. Avoid getting lazy, thinking your frayed line is okay, then hook a brute that snaps off. It’s worth taking the extra few minutes to change out the frayed line and be on the safe side.
    <br><br>The extra spools of line you carry shouldn’t end with the mainline. If you’ve not pre-tied the proper number of leaders, you may find yourself short and in need of making more. Be sure you have the right pound-test leader material for the fish and fishing styles being used if, indeed, your leader supply is low.
    <br><br>If you’re after steelhead on a very clear, low-flowing river, then a fluorocarbon leader may be the ticket to getting spooked fish to bite. This is where having an extra spool of this type of specialized leader can mean the difference between catching fish and not catching fish.
    <br><br>Most fishing techniques used on salmon and steelhead require the use of a dropper line for the sinker setup being used. I prefer a lighter dropper line than what I’m using on my mainline and leader and am sure to have a spool of this with me at all times.
    <br><br>If fishing salmon in deep water, I like using a spider sinker setup with a dropper of about five feet long. For this I like a little heavier dropper line than normal, so I am certain to have an extra spool within easy reach. With many of the specialized techniques salmon and steelhead anglers apply these days, limiting your dropper length can make a difference in overall fishing effectiveness.
    <br><br>Earlier in the year I was with a buddy, going after springers. He was low on dropper line so tied a short dropper to his spider sinker. I offered him a lengthy section of my dropper line but he declined, “Na, this will be good enough,” he shrugged. Using my long dropper, I hit two fish in three casts and tagged-out for the day. The long dropper was ideal for the high-water swirl hole we fished. My buddy soon increased the length of his dropper. The move paid-off.
    <br><br>When it comes to having extra spools of fishing line on-hand, plan ahead. Be prepared and anticipate all the situations you may face which could find you in need of extra line. Be they small or large, the needs for extra line are important and can have a direct impact on your fishing success. Make sure all is in order, before hitting the water.
    <br><br><B>Note: Special Christmas offer!</b> For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular books, <i>Bank Fishing For Steelhead & Salmon</i><b> and </b><i>300 Tips To More Salmon & Steelhead</i>, send a check for $40.00 to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. With free shipping and handling, that’s a savings of over $10.00!

From high atop the timbered ridge my camera man, Travis Ralls, and I knew where we had to go. Cinching up our packs, we headed down into the rugged canyon, sights set on hiking across the valley and climbing the opposite ridge where the elk were bugling.

We were in the rugged hills of central Montana, it was mid-September and the days were hot. The closer we got to a rippling creek in the bottom of the canyon the more its refreshing sound beckoned us. Once stream-side, I dipped my hands into the cold water, anticipating the feel of relief it would bring to my overheated face. Pulling my sweaty feet from my boots, a nice soak instantly invigorated me.

Comfortably perched on the banks of the captivating little stream, Travis and I sat in silence. Then a sudden splash in the slick above caught our attention. Another splash followed and Travis shot me a smile.

Digging into the pack, it didn’t take long to get the fishing rod rigged and ready. Stealthily moving upstream, no sooner had Travis dropped a flailing grasshopper into a pool when his line came tight. A hand-sized brook trout was the prize.

Another cast, another strikingly colored brook trout. Soon I was plucking handfuls of grasshoppers from the dry grass, giving them to Travis as needed. Swapping bait-gathering duties with fishing time, Travis and I worked our way up the stream then back down, latching into hungry, aggressive brookies in every hole.

Over the course of the next five days, all but one of our mid-day lulls in the elk hunt would find us fishing this creek. Not only was it enjoyable and relaxing but it took me back to my youth and all the days spent exploring little creeks around where I grew up.

Day after day I’d hop on my bike after school and pedal to nearby creeks, wading and catching rainbow and cutthroat trout. The explorations continued throughout the summer. What I learned in those formative years not only taught me a lot about small-stream fishing, but much of it carried-over to larger stream trout, steelhead and even salmon applications.

Despite the scale, being able to learn where a small fish holds in a small stream is a vital part of successful stream fishing, anywhere. What’s even more valuable is figuring out why fish hold where they do.

Even with the diminutive size of small creeks, they still carry many of the same features found in rivers. In these small settings you’ll find slicks, riffles, tailouts, seams, boils, backeddies and more. The fact fish hold in these places, similar to how they hold in rivers, makes small streams the perfect learning ground.

In creek fishing, the learning curve is much smaller, which equates to quicker learning. In a creek, an entire stretch of water—from the head of a riffle to the tailout—may be covered in 10 yards or less. In larger scale rivers, a hole may stretch for over 50 yards in distance, even more. What can be learned in a single hole within a creek may take minutes, whereas learning the same from a single hole in a river may take hours, days, even seasons.

In small streams, delicate, precise presentations are often crucial for success. One bad offering or one sudden move can put the clamps on the jaws of a creek trout and send them into hiding. In order to make each presentation count in a creek, anglers have to read the water and predict where the bait, lure or fly will be carried. It forces you to analyze the amount of weight being used and systematically think ahead. This correlates exactly with the importance of accurate presentations in larger streams.

One of the greatest advantages creek fishing offers anglers is the opportunity to actually see fish. Shallow streams tucked amid wooded draws offer ample shade, meaning surface reflection is minimal. Not only is being able to see where fish hold within a creek important for determining why a fish may hold where it does, but also for observing how they respond to a presentation.

Being able to watch a fish progress from a relaxed state to one of aggression that’s targeted at your bait is not only thrilling, but an educational element not commonly encountered in large-scale settings. When fishing deep holes within a creek, it’s amazing to watch how long some trout will follow the bait, all the way to the tailout and where the terminal gear begins to swing, just like steelhead do in a big river.

Observing how trout move away from some presentations in a creek is exactly how fish side-slip some offerings in a river. In both situations, though a fish may not have gone for the first offering, as long as they are still holding in the same area, they’re often a catchable fish. Creek fishing allows you to change offerings—either the style of presentation or terminal gear—and see how fish physically react. This cat-and-mouse game teaches a lot about how fish respond, where they move to and how to entice them into biting. It’s an education that has a direct correlation to sight-fishing steelhead in rivers.

The more time spent on creeks, the greater the likelihood of honing your river fishing skills. The list of benefits encountered while fishing creeks goes on and on, and is something any budding angler will find worth exploring. No matter what your age, there’s a certain element of learning that comes from fishing creeks that carries over to what can be learned on rivers, and in a lot less time.

Today, small-stream fishing is something I don’t do often. But every time I wet a line in a creek, I find myself feeling it wasn’t long ago that I lived for the days I could get out after school and explore, on my own. What I learned during those formative years helped shape me into the angler I am today, and I can’t help but often reflect on those fond memories. They serve as a constant reminder that small-stream fishing can help us learn, and that we can’t overlook the value of the little guys.

Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, Bank Fishing for Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $17.00 (includes S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489 or order online at www.scotthaugen.com.

The last thing I need in my life is clutter. The more stuff I have, the more easily it seems to get misplaced, and the less I use it. When it comes to fishing it’s easy to overstock one’s garage, boat, pack or tackle box with too much gear. Then again, can a hard-core angler really have too much gear?

What, then, sets the standard for helping determine if I really need any more gear? It’s simple, and comes down to one basic question: “Will this help me catch more fish?” If the answer is yes, I’ll try it. The easier something is to use, the more likely I am to use it.

Another question I’ll ask myself when considering new gear is, “Will this make my life easier?” If the answer is yes, I’ll try it. I asked myself this question when staring at the eye-popping, blue-handled series of specialty knives recently introduced by Kershaw, dubbed the Pro-Grade.

When my wife, Tiffany, saw me looking at the knives, I figured she’d remind me that I have enough already. But she was quiet, and began inspecting the knives herself.

Then she spoke. Clinching my teeth, I anticipated what words might come from her mouth. “Do you know how much money I spent on my last set of kitchen knives?” she asked. “Uuh...” I was speechless.

“I’ll tell you how much,” she continued. “I spent more on two knives than what this entire set is worth.” I smiled, seizing the opportunity.

“There are some awesome cleaning knives in here, including one with a spoon handle that’ll really let me get those salmon and steelhead extra clean for you, something I haven’t had since I was a kid. And there’s a pair of specialized bait knives I could use, a whole bunch of specialized fillet knives and check out this awesome chef’s knife, and how about...” “Let’s get ‘em,” Tiffany piped.

I smiled and complied, grabbing the set of 10 knives as quickly as I could, before Tiff’ could change her mind. This is where it helps having a wife who makes her living as a cook; she’s always looking for tools to make her life easier, too.

Once home where I could inspect the knives more closely, the feel of the sure-grip handles seemed to custom-fit my hand. Never had I held such comfortable knives, and once I began putting them to use, I was even more impressed. Tiffany echoed my sentiments in the kitchen.

When it comes to using knives in the field, I’m particular, just as Tiffany is when using them in camp or at home. We look for knives that perform specific functions with ease, hold an edge, and when they do lose an edge, can easily be sharpened.

Kershaw’s Pro-Grade knife series blades are constructed of corrosion-resistant stainless-steel, making them ideal for any setting, including oceans, bays, estuaries, rivers and lakes. The blue handles make misplacing these knives near impossible, but the best part is how comfortable they feel. Even with wet, slimy, bloodied hands, these knives hold firm in your grip, allowing all facets of fish processing to be carried-out with precision, speed and optimal control.

The Kershaw Pro-Grade set features 10 specialized knives, offering a little something for everyone. Personally, for the Pacific Northwest salmon and steelhead fishing I thrive on, five of the models immediately impressed me.

For cutting bait, the 4 3/4” Herring Knife (aka, the Bait Knife), works wonders when plug-cutting herring. No matter what the grade of herring, this finely serrated blade makes clean, precise cuts, and at under $8.00, you can’t go wrong.

Perhaps the design people are talking about most is the big-bladed Cimeter. This aggressive, 12” sturdy knife was made popular in Alaska’s high-volume commercial and sportfishing industry, where salmon could be cleanly filleted in a single pass. This style knife not only works great when filleting all sizes of salmon and steelhead, but for butchering into steaks, as well. When it comes to attaining clean-cut fillets on hefty fish, bigger is better, and at approximately $40.00, this is an affordable knife that quickly regains any lost edge with a simple slap on the steel.

For anglers who’ve used them, it’s hard denying the effectiveness of a spoon-handle knife when it comes to cleaning fish. Kershaw’s Spoon Handle Gutting Knife features a 4 1/2” blade and performs perfectly for what it’s designed to do. When it comes to opening a fish, removing the gills, internal organs and especially scooping out the kidney (that long purple section held tight against the spine by a membrane), this knife does it all. It’s easy to regain an edge on the blade and retails at under $12.00.

Two other models that impressed me were the Galley and the Curved Breaking knives. Not only does the Galley work well on fish, but Tiffany loves it in the kitchen. The 8” sturdy blade is perfect for filleting, butchering and chopping. A step up in size, the 10” Curved Breaking Knife is a bit sturdier than the Galley, but not as stout as the Cimeter. Its semi-flexible blade is great for tough-skinned saltwater fish, coho and steelhead-sized anadromous fish. Deckhands working on bottom-fishing boats love this knife.

An assortment of various-sized fillet knives round-out Kershaw’s Pro-Grade series. All models (except for the small bait knives), come with a blade guard, making for safe handling and storage. For Tiffany and I, it’s the specific functions each knife carries-out that make our lifes easier. From feel to performance, everything about these knives caters to the serious angler and cook.

If tools help me work more efficiently on the water and during the cleaning process, I’m all about implementing them into my fishing repertoire. If they make Tiffany smile, and I see her using them when cooking, then I know it’s a good investment. 

Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, Bank Fishing for Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $16.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489 or order online at www.scotthaugen.com.

This time of year, where a great deal of salmon and steelhead fishing takes place in rivers, streams and upper tributaries, close attention needs to be paid to fishing lines. I’m not talking about brands, colors or styles, rather about pound-class of both mainlines and leaders.

Every year, at one point or another, in most of the holes I fish I’m hauling out several yards of fishing line that has been broken off by fellow anglers. Granted, breaking off the occasional full-length of line happen-right down to the spool-but it seems to be happening more and more these days. This could be due to the fact there are more anglers on the water, then again, it could be due to an overuse of too light of line.

When it comes to summer steelhead, only in the shallowest, clearest situations will I downsize the mainline or leaders. The lowest I’ll ever go is 8-pound-test mainline and leader, but rarely do I ever go that light due to the fact it’s tough landing steelhead on that light of line in the waters I fish. Ten pound is my normal summer steelheading mainline, but I’ll switch to 12-pound test when fishing hard riffles, near structure or in deep holes and seams.

For salmon, 17-pound test is as light as I’ll go, bumping up to 20, 30 and 40 pound as needed. In all of the salmon, steelhead and trout fishing I’m fortunate to do, I rely on P-Line’s CXX Extra Strong line, as it runs true in diameter, has low visibility under the water and is highly abrasion resistant. Many of my leaders are also tied with CXX line. Strong, quality lines prevent the loss of fish, the loss of gear and the loss of line.

In one of my favorite summer steelhead riffles the water is shallow, fast moving and loads of fish stack-up behind the many boulders strewn about the 100-yard-long stretch. It’s a hang-up hole, and you can count on losing a great deal of gear every time out. More times than not in recent years, every time I fish that stretch, my first few casts are usually spent pulling out several yards of fishing line. This is necessary in order to eventually get the proper drift, so the terminal gear can get to where the fish are. Then again, sometimes there’s so much line in the water, it’s impossible to fish; this is when it might be necessary to toss an extra-heavy line out there to simply yard out the lines cluttering the river.

There’s a time and a place for lightweight line, but fast-moving steelhead riffles aren’t one of them. True, rivers are usually flowing shallow and clear this time of year, but rapids offer so much breakup and light diffraction that dropping to a lighter line isn’t necessary. The same holds true for salmon holding in deep slots, seams and holes; they’re not leader shy. If anything, a heavier line should be utilized in such situations so the fish can be controlled once hooked.

Salmon and steelhead have an innate ability to use water currents to their advantage, and nowhere is this more evident than once they are hooked. The knack these fish have, especially the big fish, of finding currents and fast water to assist in their fleeing danger is remarkable, and if you’ve ever fought a big king for 20 minutes or more, you know what I mean.

To help control these fish and decrease the chance of losing them-either by breaking off or the hook pulling out due to lack of pressure that can be applied-consider going to a heavier mainline and leader. A consideration to take into account, especially for salmon, is their sharp teeth. Late summer and fall-run salmon, in particular, have well-developed, very sharp teeth and going to a stronger line is almost a necessity. High-water situations are also good settings in which to upsize the line in order to better control hooked fish.

For high-water salmon, stepping up to a 40-pound mainline and 20-pound leader is common for many Northwest anglers. In big salmon waters, anglers commonly opt for 60-pound mainline and 40- or even 60-pound leader. Salmon are not leader-shy, and the heavier the line, the better the chance of hooking, controlling and landing them. If heavy lines raise doubt, consider commercial salmon fishermen who troll plugs in clear ocean water with 80-pound or heavier line, even wire leaders, and consistently catch fish.

For steelhead, upsizing both the mainline and leader can also be effective. I once hooked and lost three big steelhead in a row, all of which took me into the overhanging brush. I switched out the 12-pound mainline and 10-pound leader for heavier line and didn’t lose a fish in the brush the rest of the trip. In this situation the water was high, turbid and fast, and the steelhead weren’t leader shy.

Over the decades I’ve caught numerous steelhead while backtrolling or backbouncing 20-pound mainline and 17-pound leader for salmon. These fish obviously were not leader-shy given the conditions; usually deep seams in somewhat off-colored water. I never broke any off, either. Point is, in some situations going with too light of line can be detrimental to landing fish.

Next time you find yourself wanting to downsize the lines being used, stop and ask yourself, why? If it’s not necessary, or there’s no prayer of landing a fish on light line once it’s been hooked, then stay with the heavier line. If you’re continually breaking off leaders and snapping mainlines in the middle of a drift, then it might be time to bump it up a notch.

Not only will heavier line result in landing a higher percentage of fish, it will greatly reduce the amount of lost gear. This, in turn, has a direct correlation to how much time is spent with your line in the water, thus how many more fish you can potentially catch. Not always is lighter or smaller line, better.

Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, Bank Fishing for Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $16.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489 or order online at www.scotthaugen.com.

It’s hard to believe nine years have passed since the book, Egg Cures: Proven Recipes & Techniques, hit the market. Since that time, I’ve penned other salmon and steelhead related books, but none have received the continual feedback that the Egg Cures book has. Be it through snail mail, email or visiting with people at sport shows and seminar events, the most talked about book I’ve authored is that on egg cures.

I can’t pretend to take full-credit for this book, for were it not for the many top guides, industry authorities and some of the “fish-catchingest folks” I know, the title would never have come to fruition. The book is a solid testimony to the many anglers who are willing to share ideas in an effort to encourage others to get on the water and catch more fish.

The success of any book—be it on fishing or otherwise— largely has to do with timing. Not only was the release of the Egg Cures book perfect timing (thanks to the insight of Frank Amato Publications), but it also spurred an insurgence of egg cure-related products. Never before have there been so many specialized curing ingredients on the market as there are today. From dyes to preservatives, scents to additives, and more, never have salmon and steelhead anglers had so much to choose from when it comes to concocting their own curing recipe.

Of all the recipes featured in Egg Cures, there are a handful that always seem to pop-up in conversation. Of these, the most talked about is the Eternal Waters cure. This is a recipe that was brought to my attention by longtime family friend, Scot Johnson.

Scot’s been fishing salmon and steelhead in Oregon for nearly 50 years, and this is his favorite egg cure. The recipe was given to him by mutual friend, Doug Dennett, another very accomplished fisherman living in Oregon. Dennett originally received the recipe from another friend, then, with some tweaking, finalized it and the handling process to where it is, today.

Following is a look at the egg-curing recipe, Eternal Waters. Simple but intriguing, this cure produces a wet egg which works well when targeting salmon in many spring and fall situations, as well as both summer and winter steelhead.

INGREDIENTS
•Two 6-Ounce Cans of Fruit Fresh or Ever-Fresh
•1 Cup Borax
•2 Cups Non-iodized Salt
•1 Fluid Ounce Red Food Coloring
•1 Glass Gallon Jar (water)

Mix the dry ingredients of two 6-ounce cans of Fruit Fresh or Ever-Fresh, 1 cup borax and 2 cups non-iodized salt into a glass, one-gallon jar. A glass jar is preferred as it does not deteriorate, whereby potentially giving-off foul scent or residue. Because this cure can sit wet and remain active for years, storage in a sturdy, glass jar is preferred over plastics.

With the dry ingredients thoroughly mixed, add your skeins of eggs. It doesn’t matter if you have one skein or ten skeins, just put them all in the jar, whole. Now fill the jar with water and add one fluid ounce of red food coloring. Mix and let stand. Within 24 hours the eggs are ready to fish. All you have to do is grab a skein, cut to bait-size and you’re set.

The eggs stay in water, refrigerated, until they are ready to be used. “I have eggs in my shop refrigerator right now that have been sitting in this brine for over three years,” shares Johnson. “If I want to go fishing tomorrow, I wouldn’t hesitate getting a skein from the jar and taking off. They’re incredible eggs!”

Fruit Fresh or Ever-Fresh can be purchased at any local grocery store. These are intended to keep fruits and vegetables from browning and protect the flavor, thus preserving color loss and lengthening longevity. It works well on eggs, too. Even after years in this brine, the eggs are surprisingly sprite and succulent looking when this preservative is used.

“Some guides who use these eggs will remove the skeins from the jar the night prior to fishing,” says Johnson. “They’ll let them air-dry overnight to toughen ‘em up a bit.” Johnson notes that the eggs are messy to handle and some people prefer wearing rubber gloves when cutting the baits to desired sizes and placing them on the hook.

One of the reasons this cure is so popular is the eggs take a long time to milk out. The food coloring stays locked in the eggs and the Fruit Fresh helps hold it in. In fact, guys I spoke with who have used this cure desire it because they can actually see the eggs milking out over repeated casts, not just the first few throws.

One of the most amazing attributes of this cure is the fact skeins can be added to it at any time. “Say you initially place two skeins in the cure. If you catch a hen the next day, toss her skeins in, too. If you catch another hen a month or two later, throw those skeins in. It doesn’t matter when you add eggs to this brine, that’s the beauty of it,” remarks Johnson.

Since the release of the Egg Cures book, I have spoken with many anglers who’ve had the same Eternal Waters brine curing eggs for two years or longer. Simply add skeins to the mixture as you catch them. It doesn’t matter what subspecies of salmonid it is, the cure works on all of them. Just be sure the eggs are clean and in good condition, so as not to taint the brine.

It’s worth noting that curing an entire skein at once allows you to cut the baits to a desired size when it comes time to hit the river. For example, simply cut small baits for summer steelhead in fast water, large baits for chinook you’re targeting in deep holes.

Other positive feedback received by anglers who’ve fell in love with this recipe is the fact it’s so easy. When they get home late at night, the last thing many anglers feel like doing is curing their eggs. With the Eternal Waters cure, all you have to do is toss the skeins into the brine and you’re done. It’s as easy as it sounds, and it catches fish.

With springer season upon us and summer steelheading in full-swing, this is an egg cure worth trying. Special thanks to Doug Dennett and Scot Johnson for sharing this recipe in an effort to help fellow anglers catch more fish.

Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, Egg Cures: Proven Recipes & Techniques, send a check for $15.00 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489 or order online at www.scotthaugen.com. Mention you saw it here, in STS, and receive a free 40-minute DVD on gearing-up for springers. This DVD, a copy of one of Scott’s TV shows, also offers egg-curing tips.

The river level was unseasonably low, forcing the summer steelhead to hold in the riffle in front of us. My buddy, Russ Mathews, and I felt confident the fish were there, just as they had been the past few days.

Wading shin-deep onto a bedrock ledge, Russ made the first cast; I was right behind him. We made a half-dozen casts into the riffle without drawing a strike. “Maybe they moved out of here,” I pondered.

Changing our offerings, I downsized and switched color of the single Corky that topped my eggs, while Russ stacked a pair of small driftbobbers atop the full night crawler he’d been using. No sooner had Russ’ presentation hit the water when his line came tight and a chrome-bright steelhead was cartwheeling through the air.

A few casts later, Russ tied into another steelhead, followed by a third. Rather than change from eggs to a worm, I stacked a second Corky onto my presentation. Two casts later, a steelhead hammered it. Over the course of the next couple of hours we hooked nine steelhead before leaving the hole with our limits.

I’m an advocate of trying new things, especially when the bite’s not happening, and on this day the change paid off. It’s not easy to turn away from what you know works, but when it’s not producing, what better time to test something else; in this case, stacked drift bobbers.

Stacking drift bobbers on top of one another not only adds buoyancy, causing the bait to ride a bit higher off the bottom, it also creates more visibility and generates movement so the presentation can be more easily seen by fish. In the case of our summer steelhead fishing scenario, the water was clear and low. The fish we targeted were holding against a bedrock ledge, holding at about eight feet deep on a gravel bottom. In this situation, I think it was the added buoyancy and increased visibility that the two drift bobbers generated that triggered the bite.

Over the years I’ve encountered numerous situations where stacking drift bobbers has resulted in catching fish when nothing else seems to work. When it comes to springers, a favorite situation in which to stack drift bobbers is in high, turbid water. In this case, stacking a pair of large Corkies helps suspend the bait while increasing its visibility. There have been many times over the years where we’ve fished a salmon hole and not gotten a bite until switching to a larger presentation of stacked drift bobbers; the fish were there, we just had to find what turned them on.

I’ve also had good success when running a winged drift bobber, like a Spin-N-Glo or Flashing Cheater, above a Corky. The added action works especially well for steelhead in deeper holes, steelhead holding in and traveling through deep riffles and salmon traveling through deep channels and holding against rock ledges in high-water situations.

You can also stack a pair of winged drift bobbers atop one another. When doing this with mid to large sized Spin-N-Glos or Cheaters, it’s a good idea to put a couple of small, 3mm beads below the bottom drift bobber. The beads serve the specific purpose of keeping the spinning drift bobbers balanced, whereby preventing line twist and keeping them from getting caught in any yarn that might be on the hook. The beads will even keep the spinning drift bobber from burrowing over the eye of the hook, itself. Placing a bead between the two spinning drift bobbers will also keep the upper drift bobber working efficiently.

When it comes to salmon fishing, one of the benefits of stacking spinning drift bobbers—either on themselves or atop a Corky—is the added movement it provides. This is especially true when fishing cured eggs as the action of the winged drift bobber keeps the bait slightly vibrating in certain situations. This added action ensures that scent is constantly being carried from the cured eggs, something that’s important when it comes to targeting a salmon’s sensational sense of smell.

In low-water situations, stacked drift bobbers have a place, too. Simply downsizing a pair of drift bobbers—rather than using one big one—will keep the buoyancy you’re after while simultaneously cutting down on the profile of the presentation so as not to potentially spook fish. This can be achieved with two small Corkies, a small Corky and little winged drift bobber, or something as simple as a small Corky teamed with a trout bead, Pill or Puff Ball.

The beauty of downsizing and adding two drift bobbers is that you can use a smaller hook, ensuring a low-profile presentation. This also eliminates the commonly seen error of putting too large a drift bobber atop too small a hook, which makes it hard for fish to get hooked when they strike because the point of the hook is obscured by an oversized drift bobber.

When fishing drift bobbers, threading a Puff Ball onto the hook can also impact a drift. Be careful not to thread the Puff Ball too far onto the hook or it will turn the point down, whereby increasing the likelihood of getting hung-up. Instead, position the Puff Ball where the bend of the hook starts, just below the barb, so the point of the hook will drift in an upright position. This will keep the hook from embedding in sticks, rocks and other debris.

The manner in which drift bobbers can be stacked is only limited by the imagination. This season, mix and match your presentations in an effort to bring more strikes. If you think fish are there, but nothing’s biting, don’t be content with trying the same old thing. Instead, reach into the tackle box and offer the fish something they can’t refuse.

Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s latest fishing book, Bank Fishing For Steelhead & Salmon, send a check for $17.00 (includes S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489 or order online at www.scotthaugen.com.

Some of the best anglers I’ve had the good fortune of fishing with over the past 40-plus years have one thing in common: They never quit learning. They’re desire to learn is continual, and their minds are always open to new things. With sportshow season once again upon us, this is one of the best opportunities anglers have where they can learn more about the salmon, trout and steelhead they pursue.

Much of what we, as anglers, learn is by word-of-mouth. Whether reading about it in books or magazines, seeing it on DVDs or TV shows, or hearing about it on radio interviews or in seminars, much of what we learn comes from other people.

Sportshows are another great resource where invaluable pieces of information can be learned in a very short period of time. Some of the bigger shows, like those held in Portland, Puyallup, Sacramento and Denver, each host a large field of highly knowledgeable minds; smaller, local sportshow events also attract some very knowledgeable people within the fishing industry. From guides to professional anglers, editors to TV hosts, factory research and development personnel to sales representatives, they are all valuable resources to draw upon at these sportshows.

If you’re interested in learning more about the topic of egg cures for salmon and steelhead fishing, for instance, there’s usually more than one booth at these shows with folks who make their living specializing in precisely that. Want to learn more about the science behind curing eggs, how to achieve different colored and flavored cures, and how to set them up for fishing certain species in specific situations? Then visit the booth of one of these experts.

Perhaps you’d like to expand your lure fishing knowledge. Not only are there several professional lure makers usually sharing their craft in a booth, where you can watch them create the hardware right then and there, but they will also talk with you. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Maybe you want to learn more about the difference between spinner blade colors, size and action, or would like to know how to tune a spinner once it gets out of alignment. All you have to do is ask.

If you want to learn how some of the top steelhead jigs on the market are crafted, you’ll likely have the chance to do that, too. These are the creators who use their skills to craft valuable fishing tools that not only appeal to anglers, but more importantly, to fish. Curious why some colors of marabou outfish others? Want to know the difference between paint jobs on jig heads, or why body beads can be so effective? Ask the jig crafters.

For fly fishing fans, you could spend all day in that row of booths at the larger shows, watching and learning. These folks also offer some incredibly valuable seminars on the latest tying techniques and how to create specialized patterns. They can also teach you how to fish the latest patterns, what waters they work best in and what weight rods and lines offer the highest returns.

Creators of copolymer, braided and fluorocarbon lines—as well as others—are also on-hand to share the differences in these lines, how they are made and what purposes they are intended to serve. Not quite sure how some of these specialized lines may best fit your needs; just ask.

The same goes for fishing rods and reels; with so many specialized creations on today’s markets, you may be hoping to learn something more about their craftsmanship and intended uses. This is the place to do it. In addition to some of the highly knowledgeable guides, sales reps’ and designers who may be there to field questions, don’t overlook sporting good store personnel. These folks also make their living and stake their reputation on knowing the latest on fishing industry gear, and they are more than willing to help in any way they can.

If you’re one who enjoys attending seminars in an effort to build a knowledge base, sportshows offer a lineup that can’t be beat. Last year I gave two seminars in one day at a large sportshow in the Pacific Northwest. I gave the first seminar of the day at 10:00 a.m., then another seminar on a different topic in the last slot of the day. There were two men in the front row at the first seminar, both jotting notes as quickly as they could write. They were there, doing the same thing when I showed up seven hours later, for my second seminar. They’d sat through every seminar that day and each filled a notebook. Talk about getting your money’s worth. They were fired-up and ready to go fishing.

Don’t forget about the folks in the magazine and book publishing business. The information held within the pages of their publications are there to serve your needs and interests. Were it not for you, the publishing businesses would not be around. Talk to these folks about what resources they have available that will help you expand your fishing knowledge and let them know what you’d like to see more of.

Getting hungry? Don’t forget to sit-in on some of the many cooking seminars going on at the larger sportshows. Not only will you come away with some great techniques and recipes, you’ll also get tasty samples.

If you plan on attending the O’Loughlin trade shows in Puyallup, Portland or Redmond, be sure and stop by the Salmon, Trout, Steelheader booth and say “Hi,” pick up some books and maybe renew that magazine subscription. My wife, Tiffany, will be devoting time to the cooking arenas, while I’ll be offering seminars and hanging out at our own booth; we’ll both be signing books all day long. Stop by and be sure to bring some pictures to share, we love hearing your success stories.

Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s latest fishing book, Bank Fishing For Steelhead & Salmon, send a check for $16.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489 or order online at www.scotthaugen.com.

Most anglers I know of, myself included, are continually on the lookout for ways to improve. This may come in the form of learning about the latest gear or fishing style, where the hottest bite is, or maybe enlightening themselves on the species we love to pursue.
    There are several resources out there to help enrich the pastime we share, but it can take serious dedication and a lot of time to pool these resources and apply what they teach us. Last summer I participated in and observed two events that reminded me just how fortunate we all are to have one another to rely upon.
    One event was the annual meeting of Oregon’s Mid-Valley Chapter for the Association of Northwest Steelheaders. The gathering was held along the banks of the South Santiam River, at a board member’s home. Here, my family and I were invited to join in the festivities. Tiffany plank-cooked enough salmon and halibut to feed more than 50 attendees, and I later offered a crash-course on steelhead fishing techniques. Our sons, Braxton (10) and Kazden (8), helped as needed.
    For Tiffany and I, we prepared with the intent to spread some of our knowledge about the things we do for a living, namely catching fish and developing recipes. By the end of the evening, we were the ones who walked away with more knowledge and a heightened appreciation for how special groups like this really are.

    Many people offered Tiffany insight on cooking tips they’d learned over many decades. Several people shared stories with our sons, making them realize how fortunate they are to live where they can freely fish the region’s breathtaking rivers, streams and lakes. For me, I was struck by one man in particular, Andy Landforce.
    I’ve known Mr. Landforce for nearly a decade, but yet have the honor of fishing with him. We’ve both fished with mutual friends, and I’ve been told incredible stories of Andy’s fishing prowess.
    I’d not heard much from Andy over the past year, and when he shared with me that he’d been tending to his ill wife, I sensed the seriousness in his voice. “Scott, yesterday my wife felt good, and for the first time in over a year, she said it was safe for me to leave her alone and go fishing,” Andy shared.
    In quick order Andy had his driftboat hooked up, steelhead rods ready to roll. Alone, Andy drove to the river, launched his boat and made a quick float down the South Santiam River. Alone, Andy fished. Alone, Andy trailered his boat in the dark and drove home to his wife. Andy Landforce is 92 years old.
    “Ya know Scott, it was one of the best trips I’ve had on the river,” Andy continued. “I didn’t even get a strike, but I had some absolutely perfect drifts and that felt so good. That’s all I really cared about, and I was so thankful just to be on the water again.”
    Standing there, staring into Andy’s intense eyes, a lump the size of a tennis ball formed in my throat, and I fought back the tears. The sincerity and joy in Andy’s voice said it all, and you could tell this was coming from a man who devoted the past year of his life to looking after his wife, Evelyn, rather than fishing.

    Over the course of his 92 years, Andy has spent a lifetime on the river, literally. He’s probably forgotten more than I’ll likely ever know, then again, as sharp as his mind is, I doubt he’s forgotten very much at all. The passion in his voice, the glow in his eyes as he relived those few hours on the river from the previous day are visions I’ll never forget. His smile said it all, what an important impact the outdoors has had on his life and how blessed we are to have such places to enjoy and make our lives fun.
    There were other seasoned anglers I got to share stories with and they, too, enlightened my sons and I. But it was Andy’s emotional testimony that so greatly impacted me, motivating me to spend more time on the water with my family and less time in my office.
    After delivering a brief talk on fishing strategies, I mingled with the crowd. One man, around 50 years old, had just begun fishing and had many questions. That’s when one of the longtime chapter members took him aside and spent over an hour with him, sharing all he could. The next thing I knew, the veteran was to take the newcomer down the river in a couple days, teaching him what they’d talked about.
    Another member had recently bought a driftboat and was searching for help as to how to read water and operate the oars. A chapter member stepped-up there, too, offering to take the man down the river and show him, firsthand. The positive happenings never quit, and my family came away from the whole experience feeling fortunate to have been invited to take part in such a gathering. People were offering genuine help out of the kindness of their hearts, not for attention or recognition, but for the love of the sport.
    Shortly before our South Santiam experience, my dad, a couple of his buddies as well as several others, volunteered to take some Veterans down the McKenzie River, trout fishing for the day. This was arranged by the Emerald Empire Chapter of the Steelheaders.
    Over the years I’ve spoken more times at the Emerald Empire’s monthly meetings than all other Steelheaders chapters combined. True, they are close to my home, but they are also a very active group. Again, the knowledge base in this group runs high, making it a great place for people to learn. Every time I speak at their meetings I’m impressed with the newcomers of all ages who are involved in the group.
    On the Veteran’s trout fishing trip, 14 boats headed down the McKenzie, minutes from my home. Catching trout was easy, but it was spending time together, making new friends and sharing this precious resource that was most talked about.
    If you’re looking to expand your fishing knowledge, there are several ways to do it. Reading books, magazines and attending seminars are only a few options. For some, the best choice might be connecting with the giving, dedicated people who are willing to share their wisdom among the many local, state and regional fishing organizations out there. The Association of Northwest Steelheaders might be the perfect starting point, as there is much to be learned from the many people who make up this group.
   
Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, 300 Tips To More Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $29.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or visit www.scotthaugen.com. Mention in your order that you read it in STS, and receive a free 45 minute winter steelhead fishing DVD.

When I picked up the level-wind salmon reel that I’d put away the previous season, I was kicking myself for not taking the pressure off the drag. I knew better, but just got in a hurry and forgot to backdown the drag before storing it.
The last trip I’d used the reel on was when backbouncing for salmon. I’d cranked the star drag down pretty tight, and should have loosened the gears before storing it for the winter. On the positive side, I had cleaned the reel, including the worm-drive. I also wrapped it in a cloth bag, to keep the reel free of dust. But when I pulled out line to check the drag, I cringed when it didn’t move. After some adjusting, I did get the drag to work, but it was sporadic, not near as smooth as it should have been.
The more I played with it, I found I had to crank the star drag down tighter than normal to get the drag system to engage. It wasn’t the same as it used to be, and I knew it would be in need of some washer replacements if I wanted it to return to its normal functioning state.
Plain and simple, neglecting to backoff the drag on any reel is a mistake that is easily prevented, and one I’ve been been aware of since I was a kid. But this is just one tip to be aware of when it comes to basic reel maintenance; there are others.
In recent years I’ve had the good fortune to fish with Mike Perusse. Mike’s a good friend, hard worker, former guide and knows his fishing inside and out. He knows more about the intricacies of gear than I ever will and his current job includes, among other things, marketing Shimano reels for a living.
As such, Mike is dialed-in to what it takes to maintain reels to keep them functioning at optimal levels. Mike is continually on the road, deals personally with numerous sportsmen a year, and delivers top-notch seminars on fishing-related topics throughout the Pacific Northwest. He knows his stuff.
“The most common mistake I see being made is people not backing-off their drags at the end of each day, especially on level-winds” shares Perusse. “Because the washers in a drag system compress and release, when you pull line off a reel it puts a lot of tension on the drag’s washers. Loosening the drag will help the washers retain their shape by relieving otherwise continual pressure.”
“It’s especially important to backoff the pressure on level-winds because people have a tendency to really crank those star drags down tight compared to the plastic knobs on a spinning reel that doesn’t create as much tension.” Perusse continues. “Ideally, it’s best to backoff the pressure on all reels at the end of each day, not the end of a season.”

Another misconception Mike commonly encounters is the tendency for people to oil or grease the worm-drive on level-wind reels. “The worm-gear-—the one that drives the line back and forth across the spool-—can get clogged with debris while fishing, as well as when hiking through brush to get to bank fishing spots,” Mike points out. “It’s the conglomeration of this moss, surface scum, salt residue, dirt, leaves, twigs, or whatever else gets in the worm-drive, that hinders its performance. When you grease this gear, it acts like a spider web, catching more debris than if it hadn’t been greased. Instead of greasing or oiling, simply wipe clean with a damp paper towel.
If fishing in salt water, gently rinse the reel with fresh water at the end of the day. There’s no need to pressure-wash the reel, as a gentle rinsing will do the job. “If you own a cast aluminum reel, be sure to thoroughly rinse it with fresh water, as any salt or brackish water that gets in or under the sprayed paint job, can lead to corrosion,” Perusse suggests. Mike also enlightened me to a commonly overlooked fact of reel care. “On level-winds, there’s a little tension knob that people often tinker with that allows the spool to more freely rotate, whereby increasing their casting range. This knob should be closed at the end of each day, and here’s why.”
“Every time you loosen that knob, it creates a gap on either end of the spool,” Mike adds. “On most reels, you can actually push down on the spool and feel it move left and right between these gaps. If you don’t close those gaps at the end of the day, dust and other sediments can collect in them, potentially cutting down on the effectiveness of that system. These gaps also collect salt and scum during a day of fishing, so be sure to rinse them out before cranking down the knob.”
Generally speaking, when it comes to reels, the more you invest in them the higher their quality and level of performance will be. But no matter how high-end your reels are, the better care you can take of them, the more efficiently they’ll operate and the longer they’ll last. Before stowing reels for any length of time, I encase them in a cloth or felt bag, then place them in a cupboard to further prevent dust from collecting in the spools, worm-drives and other parts. The more bells and whistles your reels have, the less mechanical maintenance they should need, but you’ll still want to take good, basic care of them to get the most out of your investment. The key, as I’m still learning, is remembering to do what I’m supposed to at the end of each day.
Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, 300 Tips To More Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $29.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or visit www.scotthaugen.com. Mention in your order that you read it in STS, and receive a free 45-minute winter steelhead fishing DVD.

Over the next couple of months there are a variety of salmon, steelhead and trout options available. From the mouths of big rivers to their upper tributaries, from small coastal streams to rivers pouring out of rugged mountains, from lakes to large ponds, there’s no shortage of places to explore this time of year.
    When preparing to fish this wide range of water from a boat, it’s worth asking yourself, “What can I do differently to help find success, or be more safe?” It may be as simple as changing your terminal gear offering or the technique being used. It may come down to making some investments in a motor that will help you more efficiently cover water and apply techniques you might otherwise not be able to employ.
    Following are some options to consider, regardless of the species of fish being targeted.
   
    Kicker or Trolling Motor
    If fishing from a drift boat or skiff, one of the best ways to cover water-—especially dead water—is with a motor. Once you’ve drifted through a stretch of fishable water and want to return to where the drift started, it can be painstaking, even impossible, to row your way back up. Firing-up a motor and heading back upstream can be a huge timesaver, and get you back into where the fish are.
    At the same time, if you’re done fishing a stretch of water and needing to head through a long stretch of slack, unfishable water, a motor can make that happen much quicker. The idea is to cut down on your travel time, and increasing your fishing time.
    You can either use a small kicker motor or go the electric route, depending on the size of your boat and the water being fished. If going with a gas kicker, you will need a certified license in some states. That’s why many anglers are switching to the high-power electrics, like Minkota’s Maxim Pro80. For this big-thrust beast you’ll need two, 12-volt batteries mounted on the transom. You can install a small onboard charger, which makes it easy to plug in and recharge at day’s end. Of course, you can choose a smaller electric motor.
    Not only are these small motors great for covering water, they are also very effective for applying certain fishing techniques, even in large sled boats. Side-drifting, free-drifting and backtrolling can all be easily achieved with the aid of a small motor. Having a small motor also serves as backup, which can get you out of a real jam, no matter what size boat you’re fishing from.
   
    Propeller Guard
    As anglers follow fish into their upper tributaries this time of year, river levels can be very low, especially if fall rains are delayed. At the same time, last spring’s heavy rainfall and intense runoff may have altered the structure of a river, forcing rocks to fill-in where they hadn’t previously been.
    If running boats up and down the river, or using a small motor to apply certain techniques, it’s a good idea to invest in a propeller guard. For the added protection of a propeller, it’s worth spending the extra money on a stainless-steel version that lasts, not the plastic ones that can bend, flex and break.
    Prop’ guards not only directly protect the blades, but cut-down the overall stress on the motor. Running over gravel and rocks can wear the blades down, even sheer a pin, which can result in the prop’ falling off the drive shaft. This kind of stress can also be hard on engines. Prop’ guards definitely help.
    Prop’ guards come in a variety of shapes and sizes, so find what best fits your needs. It could be a simple plate, a series of plates or a round guard that surrounds the entire outside of the propeller blades. There’s even a cage that attaches to the unit and protects the whole prop’ system.
    The more the propeller blades wear down, the less force they have. The less force they have the longer it takes to get where you’re going, the harder the motor works and the more fuel you burn. If you fish amid any rocky areas, a prop’ guard is worth the investment simply for the time and money it saves over years of extended use.

Boat Check List
    Keeping track of everything in your boat is important to success and safety on the river. Before even wetting an oar or dunking a motor, however, check state regulations to see what’s required in the boat. Some states require a whistle, driftboat license, special licensing for kicker motors, lifejackets, and so forth.
    Once prepared to hit the water, run through a complete checklist to make sure all is in order. Double-check everything from anchor setups to ropes, clean towels, an extra oar, hand soap, fuel and oil levels, battery charges, heaters and whatever else you require to have a safe and productive day on the water.
    The more you get out, the more automatic this checklist will become, but don’t take it for granted. I know of several veterans who forget something important from time to time, myself included. It’s a helpless feeling, planning a trip to the river, arriving and realizing you forgot a vital piece of equipment. Not only can this setback potentially cost you several hours of fishing time, it can ruin an entire day, especially if citations are issued.
    In preparation for this fall’s fishing, don’t overlook the obvious. Plan ahead and make sure all is in order prior to leaving home. If getting a small kicker or trolling motor, think of it as a long-term investment. The more prepared you are to hit the water, the more time you’ll spend actually fishing, and hopefully, catching more fish.
   
    Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, 300 Tips To More Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $29.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or visit www.scotthaugen.com. Mention in your order that you read it in STS, and receive a free 45 minute winter steelhead fishing DVD.

Coolers, wooden pallets, broom handles, chairs, small ladders, a 2x4, a chunk of wood, a saw horse and anything else that stands waist-high and is easily accessible in the corner of the garage: What do these things have in common?

That’s right, they’ve all been used by drift-boat owners for years to prop up the tongue of boat trailers come cleaning and/or storage time. When my wife caught me with a big cooler precariously wedged on-end, under my trailer, both of our young sons playing around the thing, I got an ear-full.

I didn’t think much of it at the time, for this was all I’d ever done; grab what’s close, toss it under the trailer and start washing out my drift boat. But the dangers of having the kids running around got my attention. I wasn’t going to win any father-of-the-year award if I didn’t change my habits.

It got me to thinking about the mishaps I’ve had over the years when washing out my boat. There was the time the trailer shifted and slid off the four-foot-tall 2x4 I had pinned under the hitch. That time, the V-shaped bracket under the tongue landed square on the wiring, severing the whole system.

Then there was the time the front of the boat slammed to the ground while I was inside, washing beneath the bow. Another time, when I forgot to chock the tire, it slid forward and rammed into the tailgate of my new truck.

The more I reflected, the more I realized these less-than-adequate props had cost me a great deal of time and money over the past 30 years. So, when I picked up my new Alumaweld drift boat a few years back, I asked them and the folks at Rogue Trailers to weld a support stand onto the trailer. This support stand, otherwise known as a stabilizer jack, has become one of the most important tools I rely on and continually put to use once my day on the river has come to a close.

When it comes to washing out the inside of a drift boat, many anglers leave the trailer hitched to the truck. From there, they run the boat halfway off the back of the trailer, supported by the winch line, so the water will drain out. This is a good way to do it, but if wanting to free-up the boat from the rig and give it a quick washing, try installing a stabilizer jack.

Stabilizer jacks fit securely under the tongue of the trailer, held in-place while traveling by a safety pin. When home, simply unhitch the boat, lift up the tongue and flip out the trailer jack. Be sure to lock it in place with the pin.

If you store your boat outside, where rain water accumulates in the boat, having a trailer jack extended at all times ensures water will run out the drain hole. Be sure to chock both in front of and behind a tire when storing the boat, so if it does shift, it won’t go anywhere.

The stabilizer jack I had installed on my trailer has served me well over the years. It’s welded in-place and has never failed me, even when walking around the inside of the boat. However, my stabilizer is a fixed length, which can limit what position I put the boat in on varied types of ground.

Over the past few months I’ve been using a new stabilizer jack, the Drift Boat Angler trailer stand. This is the ultimate jack that many anglers have thought of over the years, but did nothing about. Then Ken Smith, owner of Smitty-Tackle (www.smitty-tackle.com), took the idea to a higher level.

The concept of the jack is simple, yet well thought-out. It’s one of those things the outsider perceives as basic at first glance, but the more details you see, the more specialized you realize it truly is. You also begin to understand the costly and time-consuming craftsmanship that goes into perfecting such a specialty item.

For instance, the Drift Boat Angler trailer stand is attached to a mounting plate which has six u-bolt holes in it. These holes allow the stand to be bolted onto a 3-inch tongue or a 2-inch tongue. It’s easy to install, taking only a few minutes. In fact, in the summer I removed it from my boat trailer, secured it to my utility trailer and chipped away at my honey-do list. It was great for unloading sawdust.

The key features that set this stand apart are the three-position pin holes and a telescoping leg. Also, the quality steel parts are powder coated, available in black or gray, giving a classy look with the extra durability.

The telescoping leg, with five adjustable settings, extends all the way to four-and-a-half feet tall. This range of motion will meet the needs of all boat owners. Simply choose the height that fits your current need, select a setting and insert the provided bolt and nylon nut. For short-term storage and quick, easy handling, I found a snapper pin easier to use than the bolt.

Another luxury of this stand, the multi-pin holes allow you to achieve the desired angle for safe storage. I’ve used this stand on two different boat trailers, including one with an extended tongue, and the multiple holes came in handy. Simply swing the leg to the desired angle, line up the leg’s top hole with one of the three pin holes on the mainframe of the stand, and slip the provided snapper pin into position.

It sounds easy, and it is, that’s the beauty of it. But the quality craftsmanship and the fact it’s built by serious anglers, for serious anglers, makes it a beneficial tool to have. Not only has the stand made it much easier and safer for me when washing the inside of the boat, it’s also never failed me when storing the boat.

When storing your boat—no matter what you use as a trailer jack—be sure to set wheel chocks in front and behind a tire. These can be a brick, chunk of wood, or whatever is handy to keep the wheels from turning. This is a wise idea for common-sense safety reasons and to prevent unnecessary damage.

Now, with my new Drift Boat Angler trailer stand, when I’m washing out my boat at the end of the day, I don’t have to worry about the kids. They can be around the outside of the boat, helping me, while I crawl up inside and give it a thorough scrubbing. I know the boat’s not going anywhere, and my mind is at ease knowing I will no longer damage my trailer’s wiring, truck’s tailgate, or anything else. My wife is happier, too!

Note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s latest book, Bank Fishing for Steelhead & Salmon, send a check for $16.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or visit www.scotthaugen.com.

The first time I fished with legendary angler Buzz Ramsey I was in awe of all the gear he was able to fit into the drift boat-—and still keep it afloat. Rods we stacked in front, behind and alongside the seats; tackle boxes were stashed around the sides and behind the front seats and multiple hook files placed about. No matter where in the boat you were, a file was always within easy reach.

While Buzz and I did use all of the rods for the many different techniques we applied that day, what really caught my attention was how often he reached for the file. I found the same to be true when fishing with other masters in the salmon and steelheading world over the years, namely Bob Toman and Nick Amato.

Each of these anglers are on a different level than what many of us can relate to, myself included. Not only are anglers of this caliber dialed-in when it comes to reading water, knowing which presentation to make and when to make them, but they can feel the most subtle of strikes and are adamant about keeping their hooks sharp.

Buzz put it best, “If you’re hook’s not sharp, all your efforts can be for naught.”

I’ve fished with Buzz, Nick and Toman many times over the years, and one thing they are always attentive to is keeping that hook sharp. The key is making the effort to check the point of your hook, then making the effort to keep it well honed.

Forty-one years ago, when I started steelhead and salmon fishing, there weren’t many hooks on the market to choose from, and what was available wasn’t very sharp. In fact, I recall sharpening the hooks before they even hit the water for the first time.

Today, the technology of hooks have greatly advanced and there are now multiple brands on the market that come needle-sharp in the package, ready to fish. But just because they come sharp doesn’t mean they’ll stay sharp.

Every time you get hung up and pull free, check that hook to make sure it’s kept its point. Each time the hook embeds in a stick, rolls around in the rocks or spends time on a sandy river bottom, feel it to ensure the point is still sharp. If hung up on a bedrock ledge, no matter how soft the hangup feels and how easily the hook comes free, check the point.

Many of today’s hooks are machine-sharpened to precision, resulting in an ultra-fine point that can bend, break or become dulled at the slightest hangup. This is because the point is so fine, it simply gives way to the greater pressure being applied by the force of the rod in the angler’s attempt to free the gear. The result could be a dulled hook.

Any time you’re snagged, check the point of the hook. After every half-dozen or so casts where the terminal gear bounces along the bottom, check the hook. If trolling through salt water, check the hook points to make sure the coating hasn’t worn off, whereby allowing the metal to deteriorate (this is something Bob Toman taught me).

Once you have touched-up a hook a few times, and honed its point to where it’s needle-sharp, pay attention to how deep your file is digging. One of the biggest mistakes anglers make when sharpening their hooks is running the file over the tip too many times, wearing it down. All it takes is a few simple passes of the file to bring that point back.

Personally, I’ll run the file once, maybe twice, over each side and the front of the hook point. This is usually all it takes to get it sharp.

If using treble hooks, be sure and check the tip of each hook, especially when casting and drifting lures. If using plugs with treble hooks or multiple treble hooks, be sure and check them each time you’re hungup.

Once you’ve landed a fish, always check the hook or hooks to make sure they’ve maintained their fine point. Steelhead and salmon have hard, bony mouths, and the act of fighting them can put pressure on the tip of the hook, potentially dulling it.

Even pulling the hook out of a fish’s mouth can dull it, depending on how hard you tweaked it and what angle you pulled on it from. Driving the point of the hook into a net, especially one with lead or metal attachments, can also potentially dull a hook. As for hooks laying in the tackle box that appear rusty, sharpen or replace them. Don’t take anything for granted. Be sure and check the point of a hook whenever there is any question, just to make sure it’s sharp.